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纺织·面料
12
engines
纱线细度计数体系
Yarn Count Systems
tex=g/1000m/denier=g/9000m直接制 · Ne/Nm间接制 · 20tex=180D=50Nm=29.5Ne
One yarn expressed in tex / denier / Ne / Nm
纱线捻度与捻系数
Yarn Twist & Twist Multiplier
TM=TPI/√Ne · TPI=4·√30=21.9 · 加捻增强度至峰后降(过捻)
TPI = TM·√Ne; strength rises then falls with twist
机织物面密度 GSM
Fabric Areal Density (GSM)
GSM=(经密×经tex+纬密×纬tex)/1000=96.5g/m² · 密度/粗度增
GSM = (EPI×warp_tex + PPI×weft_tex) ÷ 25.4
织物覆盖系数
Fabric Cover Factor
K=经密/√Ne · Kw+Kf−KwKf/28=16.5(max~28) · 覆盖越高越密
Textile Engineering · cover factor
纱线织缩与送经
Yarn Crimp & Take-up
卷缩%=(伸直−织物)/织物=8% · 织造上机长>成布 · 密度/粗度增
Textile Engineering · crimp & take-up
织物悬垂系数
Fabric Drape Coefficient
DC=(阴影−圆盘)/(试样−圆盘)=29.5% · 硬挺高DC/柔软低DC
Textile Engineering · Cusick drape
纱线强力:支强积 CSP 与比强度
Yarn strength: CSP & tenacity
CSP=Ne×缕强=2400 · 品质指标 · tenacity cN/tex跨支数比
Textile Engineering · 纺织工程
织物组织:浮长与交织
Weave structure: float & interlacing
平纹1/1交织最多 · 斜纹2/1对角 · 缎纹长浮光滑 · 浮长
Textile Engineering · 纺织工程
织物密度:经密 EPI 与纬密 PPI
Thread density: EPI & PPI
EPI经/PPI纬 · 60EPI=23.6根/cm · 越密越重越不透 · 60×50
Textile Engineering · 纺织工程
牵伸与并合
Drafting & Doubling
牵伸D=输出/输入线密度 · 4ktex/40=100tex · 并合n股CV降√n
Textile Engineering · draft & doubling
回潮率
Moisture Regain
R%=水分/干重 · 棉8.5/毛15/涤0.4 · 影响公量舒适
Textile Engineering · moisture regain
织物缩率
Fabric Shrinkage
缩水%=(原−洗后)/原=5% · 润湿卷缩重排 · 防缩<1% · 面积≈经%+纬%
Textile Engineering · fabric shrinkage